Pulling inspiration from the art of writing letters, Skall Studio’s Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24 show was as comforting as a good read. Here’s a look inside.

Skall Studio Pens a Heartfelt Love Letter at CPHFW AW24

Pulling inspiration from the art of writing letters, Skall Studio’s Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24 show was as comforting as a good read. Here’s a look inside.
February 09, 2024
article by Mari Alexander/

photography by James Cochrane

It’s a little past noon as guests filter through the grand hall of Fabrikken in Sundholm.

Translated as “The Factory,” the creative complex is home to a collection of artist and designer studios. Fittingly, it has a distinctly artsy feel. Think: A patchwork-like floor of concrete, wood, and faded white paint, like an error erased with correction fluid. A gabled roof pierced by skylights. A paned window on one side, letting in gorgeous rays of sun — a muse for any kind of creative. 

Maybe I’m not entirely off here; Skall Studio’s fall-winter 2024 collection titled “Letters,” after all, is inspired by a creative exercise — the art of writing. “We have always had something in our hearts and minds that we wish to share through our work,” the press release reads. “Writing letters about life and people that inspire us. Sharing the stories of someone who also have something in their hearts and minds.” 

More specifically, founders and creative directors Julie and Marie Skall focused on the literary scene of New York in the ’60s. (This extends in many directions — from American writer and journalist Joan Didion to Canadian singer-songwriter and poet Leonard Cohen. Oh, and even Bob Dylan.) The collection echoes that vibe. The bookish mood is set as soon as the first look appears on the runway: an easy-shaped gray coat and chunky scarf flung over the shoulder. 

We see a structured blazer worn on top of an ultra-crisp button-up. (And is that a scarf peeking from underneath the collar?) We see a scholarly shirt-sweater combination underneath a checked coat. All of this is styled with a pair of straight-leg jeans and the most important accessory of all — a Moleskine-style notebook. (In fact, several models walk down the runway clutching newspapers and notebooks.) In another look, an easy turtleneck and a warm plaid skirt keep things comfortable and chic — perfect for running from café to home to bookstore. 

Setting Pen to Paper

For Danish sisters Julie and Marie, there’s always been a sense of ethical responsibility underpinning their approach to production. They founded Skall Studio in 2014 as an unpretentious sustainable label, and it quickly became a brand beloved by the fashion week crowd. All of its constituents appreciate its stellar craftsmanship and simple-but-striking staples dreamed up in a fresh way. But even more importantly, Skall Studio also holds a strong appeal as a brand that does sustainability right —  choosing quality at every turn, creating garments that are easy, versatile and made with the most long-lasting and natural materials they can find. 

To Julie and Marie, knowing what their fabrics are made of — and how they’re made — is one of the most crucial cornerstones of running their business. That’s why most of their garments are made right at home here in Denmark. “We believe in using only natural materials such as organic cotton, linen and wool from a local organic sheep herd,” the sisters said in an interview. “We love to work with these materials because they have so many great properties and are comfortable to wear.” 

On the leftDenim makes a noticeable appearance throughout the collection with these tried-and-true staples.

Ten years later, Julie and Marie are still making good on those promises and principles. That’s why their anniversary collection heavily relies on the very things that they built their brand upon. Case in point: Outerwear is made from 100 percent recycled wool from Manteco, an Italian textile company that has been developing circular fabrics for three generations sans any dyes and chemicals. Fair Isle knits are made from RWS-certified wool and jeans out of GOTS-certified denim. (Both entities are responsible for setting standards for garment production.) 

Feel-Good Clothing

The Danish bohemian style that Skall Studio is known for is, of course, celebrated here with easy-breezy, delicate eyelet tops finished with lace. (It’s nice to see the brand is still in touch with its romantic side.) A few looks boast some gorgeous embroidery. Look closer, and you’ll see they’re shaped like tiny leaves. 

On the rightWith billowy sleeves and lace trims, these pieces are the exemplar of luxe bohemia.

In the press release, Skall Studio also speaks wistfully of the fall season, particularly “the yellow and orange leaves, the crisp air in the mornings, and the rays of sunshine hanging low in the sky.” The season’s typical caramel palette, chunky knits, and cozy textures definitely evoke that mood. Seeing these looks down the runway makes me want to dip into a good read or hunker down in front of my laptop and just write, write, write. Especially on a day like today, when it’s frigid but sunny. 

Maybe, as a writer, I’m biased, but I find myself being pulled into this world. (Scenes from You’ve Got Mail play in my head long after the show ends.) It’s warm and nostalgic. As the collection confirms, Julie and Marie have managed to craft time-tested, casual-cool uniforms that feel as comforting as a tucking into a good read.