As luck would have it, the sun comes out, gleaming over the wet asphalt, a few minutes after we arrive at Charlottenlund Racetrack — the oldest harness racing track in the country — for Baum und Pferdgarten’s spring-summer 2026 show. I follow the crowd down a tree-lined drive and then past rows of reddish-brown stables, carefully hiking it in razor-sharp heels (my mistake) and making sure I don’t head for a tumble. Soon enough, I hear the first clip-clop of hooves hitting the ground. Tail dancing and mane flowing in the gentle breeze, a handsome-looking horse canters by, pulling its driver in a sulky. Phones are out. Everyone slows down to stare before remembering: The show’s about to start! 

Up ahead, we collectively turn right and quickly settle into our spots along the makeshift runway, watching the afternoon sun angling over the warm brick buildings. Not too long of a wait before a giant screen begins projecting a horse and its driver (hello again!) trotting to the steady, two-chord strum of “A Horse With No Name” by America. Together, they head into the setting sun. Why can’t I stop smiling? This alone was well-worth the 30-plus-minute journey northward from the city center — and the slight panic my busmates and I endured, wondering whether or not we were going to make it in time. (I absolutely could not bear the idea of missing a Baum und Pferdgarten show.) 

The show-opening look appears on the screen before the first model breaks out of the proverbial gate and makes her way down the runway; I crane to try and get a better look. She strides with effortless cool, her every step in sync with the laid-back rhythm of the show-opening song. A whisper of pinstripes in all gray. Her jacket is slung around her waist, and her pants are tucked into a pair of slouchy boots. We’re off to a winning start.

Some background: Baum und Pferdgarten was founded by designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave in 1999. Since then, it’s become one of the leading Danish fashion houses, putting out collections that perfectly embody the Scandinavian aesthetic: practical and playful, with pieces that allow for easy transition between different occasions. Every season, the designers draw inspiration from a diverse range of sources — from the world of sports to artistic mediums like movies and music, and even the British countryside. In the past, runways have been set up at all sorts of unexpected venues, like Østerbro Stadium, home ground of football club B93, and even a historic street by Amalienborg Palace, home to the Danish royal family. 

This season, Rikke and Helle were drawn to a Derby theme, and it’s an idea that’s been marinating for a few years now, ever since the duo attended an Hermès exhibition at Milan’s Salone del Mobile in 2023. The event struck a chord with the designers, who grew up around horses and have always been taken by their grace and unique bond with humans. When designing pieces for their spring-summer 2026 show, titled “Notes From the Grandstand,” Rikke and Helle mined those early memories of visiting racetracks and long, dusty days spent among the stables and on the saddle. “We were drawn to the sharp colour-blocking and purpose-driven silhouettes of jockeys — so bold, so functional, so instantly recognisable,” they say in the show notes. 

Inspired by the horse-racing uniforms worn by jockeys to differentiate themselves from other riders, otherwise known as “silks,” stripes are handled in an array of hues. A clever combination of burgundies and lilacs shows up in a striped track jacket paired with matching shorts as well as a balloon-sleeved sporty dress. The designers also play with grays and midnight blues, most notably in a versatile bomber that you can easily dress up or down. Equestrian silhouettes are reimagined with cargo pants that bring to mind the slouch and curve of jodhpurs, especially when they’re tucked into high boots.

Throughout, the designers expand on the equestrian theme through faux suede outerwear — from long coats to zip-up-and-down Harrington jackets, which are also cut in plaid. Heritage check makes an appearance in several looks; among the standouts is a checkered dress with a gathered, dropped waist. The designers also approach several single-buttoned blazers in leather. Of course, the influence of storied fashion house Hermès is unmistakable, most noticeably in the sumptuous silk scarves that finish off several looks — some wrapped tightly, high on the neck, and others in a casual, simple loop. (One even multitasks as a belt.) I’d also be remiss not to mention the striped hats reminiscent of jockey caps and the award rosettes that adorn a handful of skirts.

When designing the collection Rikke and Helle also panned past the racetrack itself and focused on its spectators and their over-the-top finery. “And just as captivating were the guests, dressed to be seen from every angle,” the duo explain in the show notes. “That tension between performance and pageantry gave us a rich foundation to explore character, contrast, and everything in between.” Rikke and Helle’s desire to delve into both glamour and sport leads to exciting juxtapositions — like frilled details on sporty jackets and lace trims that add a certain wispy femininity to otherwise straightforward separates. Sequins are always a part of Baum und Pferdgarten’s visual language, and I especially love how they shyly peek from under calf-grazing hemlines. 

Giving a breath of fresh air to an oft-explored theme is a tough trick to pull off, but you can always count on Rikke and Helle to do just that. Baum und Pferdgarten fans will be champing at the bit to play with the many offbeat combinations of ideas found within the collection — I count myself amongst them. Wherever Rikke and Helle take us next, and however far and long the trek, I know I will always be along for the ride.