Enormous concrete columns rise to the towering ceiling. Light gushes into the venue — an exhibition hall in the Papirøen district. Despite it being overcast outside, it’s still exceptionally luminous here. Many guests are taking advantage of this starkly photogenic and well-lit environment, posing in their best outfits for photographers and selfies. Brand representatives are flitting across the sprawling floor, ushering attendees to their empty seats. This is the mise-en-scene at Danish brand Herskind’s fall-winter 2025 show at Copenhagen Fashion Week before a metronomic noise breaks apart the clamor of voices.

Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. The show’s soundtrack opens with a series of sounds, like the warning signals of an electrocardiogram machine, before easing into a booming beat. The first model steps out in satisfying sync with the music. She’s sporting a bomber-and-shorts ensemble in a sunny yellow tone that can only be likened to a luxuriously creamy stick of butter. The sleeves are wide, the texture soft. With its undertones of wearability and an outer shell of effortless polish (especially if you factor in the crisp white button-up and knee-high boots), the opening look perfectly toes the line between function and structure. 

Next comes a teddy coat — fuzzy and affectionate in the way it cuddles with and envelopes the model’s body. She’s comfortable and chic at the same time, her hair slicked apart to create a wet-looking, glossy front. She walks with a confident, determined gait, like she has somewhere to be — and she needs to get there on time and in style.

But First, Let’s Rewind

Designer Birgitte Herskind established her namesake brand back in 2018 with the goal of creating sturdy, time-tested essentials using organic and responsibly sourced materials. (Let me elaborate: essentials here don’t mean basic.) Working alongside her daughter Andrea, the designer has managed to create a label that doesn’t conform to any trends, and yet, offers something interesting to discover in almost every piece. It’s the best of Scandinavian minimalism in a nutshell. 

This season, Birgitte is continuing her mission of building on wardrobe fundamentals, taking more design cues from other metropolitan cities like Milan, New York, and Paris. She focuses heavily on tailoring, bringing silhouettes a stitch closer to the body than in seasons past. A charcoal blazer and pants ensemble exudes confidence with its flawless, sharp cut. A stunning burnt-caramel robe coat makes a particularly big impact on the runway. Elsewhere, pinstriped blazers, suede jackets, and well-made, sensible button-ups further illustrate the brand’s easy approach to everyday staples that are functional but elevated.

On The Soft Side

It started with texture — the tactile feeling of fabric on the body. “This collection is a celebration of texture and craftsmanship, where earthy neutrals like camel and cognac are elevated with bold accents like deep purple and acid yellow, creating a palette that feels both grounded and dynamic,” Birgitte says in the press notes. This season, she’s cranked up the volume on texture with an abundance of touch-me materials that, quite frankly, steal the show. Every outfit has at least one element you just can’t wait to feel between your fingers: lovely merino wool, soft suede, leather, pure cashmere. 

Outerwear comes in a variety of weights — from the lusciously shaggy to the supple smooth. Cropped choices offer something a little more casual, while long coats in burgundies, grays, and blacks are perfect for those who skew more toward shoulder-enhanced structure. A strokeable wool peacoat is presented in a luscious shade of deep chocolate brown and teamed up with a matching skirt and tall boots. The closing look, in particular, is one I can’t get enough of: a deeply sensual ivory coat with exaggerated, rounded shoulders. Positively regal! 

Opposites Attract

To showcase the versatility of the modern working woman and her style, Birgitte also plays with opposites throughout. “I wanted to explore contrasts — strength and softness, urban life and the ease at home — capturing the multifaceted nature of modern women,” she told Vogue Scandinavia. Alongside her thick, woolly offerings, we see more flowy fabrics that move with the undulating body. A well-cut blazer is thrown on top of delicate lace, with a little bit of hemline peeking through. Some other contradicting pairings: lace with leather, heavy sateen viscose with wool. A heavyweight knit dress is shown with tall and chunky leather boots that damn near commandeers the whole look. 

“The AW25 collection is for the modern woman who values both versatility and individuality — a wardrobe designed to feel as current today as it will 10 years from now,” Birgitte says in the press notes. At the end of the show, she walks down the runway to the sound of applause, hand in hand with her daughter Andrea. In terms of what they’ve created today, I agree — they’re never behind the time, always ahead, and also right in step.