Together, they speed off in his Harley, swept up in a blissful romance. But people change with time. Consequently, relationships change, too. Theirs becomes fraught with the kind of hairpin emotional turns they write ballads about. Until, one day, after many devastating heartbreaks, she resolves to look inward, searching for herself. And she never stops, growing more and more confident every day. Slinging his biker jacket across her shoulder, she decides it’s time to find an off-ramp — and perhaps even a new life. 

This is where the story of the Gestuz muse starts on the runway at the brand’s fall-winter 2025 outing at Copenhagen Fashion Week. “I saw you brought me roses and left them at my door,” she pens him a diary-entry-like letter. “Please don’t. I can buy my own.” The words materialize on the whitewashed walls of Nikolaj Kunsthal, a church-turned-exhibition space. The sound of heartbeats are punctuated by thunder as thorny, long-stemmed roses appear across the soaring ceilings, grand arches, and massive windows. The haunting opening arrangement of “Never Tear Us Apart” by INXS kicks in as the first model struts down the runway, exerting a magnetic force. 

“The femme fatale was once again my main muse for this collection,” creative director Sanne Sehested said in the show notes. “She is complicated, dark, powerful and luxurious in her very own way.” This attitude is set from the opening look: She embodies the part of a femme fatale in a sultry lace bodysuit teamed up with an oversized blazer (maybe his) and larger-than-life statement earrings. More lace follows, cut into a sheer dress cinched with a belt, making it a skosh more fierce in its femininity.

Suiting up

In 2008, founder Sanne launched Gestuz, creating a perfect fusion of practicality and edgy femininity for the modern woman. This is the ethos of the brand, and it remains unchanged even almost 17 years later. “After a break up or a difficult time in life, a very common thing we do is to change our hair, buy a new dress, basically do something to make us feel like a better, more empowered, different version of ourselves,” Sanne said. This season, that ultra-feminine, rock ‘n’ roll energy is sharpened and amplified. The brand’s signature padded shoulders are still powering their way onto the runway, but this time, these bold silhouettes have taken on a distinctly masculine turn.

Big, slouchy blazers and crisp button-downs are paired with one of the most potent symbols of power: neckties. In some looks, there’s a denim or a track jacket tossed on top, which lends them a slightly more casual feel — without taking away an ounce of their assertiveness. Each, in its own confident way, taps into the corpcore aesthetic that fashion is bent on reviving now. Adding even more masculinity: an assemblage of leather outerwear. There are roomy moto, varsity, and racing silhouettes. I especially love the racer leather jacket with contrasting red-and-black colors, snap at collar, and zipper cuffs. This is paired with matching leather pants. It’s a striking look altogether. 

A Delicate Balance

“I was really inspired by the idea of how something so strong and raw can come from pain,” Sanne said. “Maybe even bring out a truer version of oneself.” Instead of completely exorcizing her ex and purging his belongings, the Gestuz muse has decided to learn from her relationship, perhaps even embrace what it taught her. “You gave me something for my collection, something I would never want without, but now I am ready to experience the meltdown and the build up,” the words in her letter appear on the wall. “I have come to terms with the fact that hard feelings are also part of a beautiful life.”

One of the biggest romantic remnants, of course, is clothes. The merging of wardrobes is represented through contrasts — fabrics as soft and light as a breath of air are balanced with heavy leather and chunky knits. Denim, too, makes an appearance, most notably in a jacket-and-pants ensemble complete with denim rosettes. (Lest you think that rosettes are a thing of the past, there are, in fact, on nearly everything from bags to leather jackets and coats.) We see even more floral motifs in burnout patterns and hazy prints. 

high-powered glamor

By way of shimmery fabrics, the near-closing looks bring more look-at-me glamor to the collection. One model steps out in a high-neck, long-sleeved number, the sequins glimmering under the lights with every swoosh of her hips. Another flaunts a sheer beaded gown, worn underneath an oversized motorcycle jacket — a truly prized piece of outerwear for every woman. “There are very much an old glamour meets bad ass rock and roll, all wrapped up in the classic Gestuz spirit,” Sanne said. “We embraced a darker version of the Gestuz woman. I like that.” 

“I think we changed each other,” the final words appear on the wall. “Quite possibly for the better. I am not sure yet. The verdict is still out.” Line break. “I hope you find your jacket.” Another line break. “And please don’t bring me [any more] roses.” With that searing but heartfelt kiss-off, she fully reclaims her independence. She emerges on the other side of the relationship with a renewed sense of herself — dark, daring, glamorous, and perhaps even a little inscrutable.